mig controlwasteTOMindexlogo 




Engineering a 1934 Pro Street Street Rod



Click for a 67 Page PDF


Click for YouTube Video Overview of Car


Isn't 525 HP enough?  

Not really.  When you have a Pro Street - Street Rod there is never enough.  Besides, when you go to Car Shows they often put you in the Pro Street Class since the car is "tubbed"; your competing with 871 blown Big Blocks etc.  Therefore add the Nitrous in a neat attractive way and there is enough horse power to light the Mickey Thompson's at any speed!

First find a place to add the 10 pound Nitrous bottle in a Sedan.  The accompanying photo shows the bottle taking little room behind the drivers seat:

The roll bar brace makes a fine place to mount the tank brackets.  They were cut and modified to accept  1 3/4 inch stainless pipe clamps that hold it securely to the roll bar brace.  A fire extinguisher is mounted to the top of the bar---just in case! 

 When mounting a Nitrous tank inside the car you must be sure it vents (if that should ever happen) outside the car.  A special safety valve male fitting replaces the standard bursting disk holder. A matching female fitting with an aluminum tube fits the modified busting disk holder.  It was cut and flared to provided the clearance so it does not exit over the driveshaft! 


This vent system captures any gas that would come from over-pressuring the bottle. On the hot days in South Carolina with a newly filled tank, that can happen.  If it does the whole bottle will be emptied and quickly!  Mercaptan or not (that is the smelly sulfur dioxide that is supposed to make you sick before you get high!), if you were  driving the car it would be no "laughing matter!!"

The vent tube and the AN stainless hose carrying Nitrous to the engine pass through holes drilled in the floor as noted.  Bushings fabricated from pieces of concentric plastic heavy wall hose provide a tight seal.

Next is where to mount the nitrous and fuel solenoids?  The brackets that come with the NOS Cheater kit indicate they can be placed on the carb mounting studs.  Not with an 850 Holley double pumper with 50cc accelerator pumps!  The best spot was the valve cover hold down bolts.  Slightly longer bolts and some stainless washers hold them in place.  They were double bent to raise them to the proper height to provide the needed clearance and appearance.  This close-up picture shows the fuel solenoid which clears the 5 inch thick K&N air cleaner and routes the fuel line down to the pressure regulator port.


An overall view of the plumbing shows the neat installation.  All wires were routed in one small black plastic wire cover.

This photo shows the solenoids during installation.  It was possible to use the pre-bent fuel and Nitrous lines supplied in the kit, even though one end was bent the wrong way.  Simply twist the ends so the one end is rotated 180 degrees.  It is relatively soft tubing so in bends easy.  Just do it slowly.  A tube bender and careful cutting allow all fittings and tubing to align properly.  The blue AN fitting on the Nitrous solenoid, right in picture, will be connected to the stainless braded number 4 AN hose supplied with the kit.  It's a tight fit but very neat when finished.


To finish the electrical connections the micro switch was installed on the carburetor so the Nitrous will only be injected  at full throttle.  The kit just says mount so the switch is closed at full throttle.  Easier said than done with a double pumper with two 50cc pumps.  There is little room.  A tight space was found between the rear pump are and the carb body.  An aluminum bracket was fabricated and attached to the one supplied with the kit.  The combined bracket  was mounted on the right rear carb mounting stud.  It works fine with the switch arm just activating a full throttle.  Nothing fancy but it does the job.

Overall the system looks neat and clean.  When using the Nitrous, higher octane fuel is needed and the timing is reduced.  That is necessary even when using only the minimum 150 HP jets supplied.  At a full 250 extra HP (over 750 in total) 110 octane  fuel and 5 degrees retard from stock are necessary. 



Check out these web sites describing our products, the car and the cooling system:

MIG Gas Delivery and the Small Block Chevy Evolved in a Similar Way and Time!

 Both had Advances and Setbacks Before

They Were Optimized!


Click for a PDF Report on the Similarities

Free Information on Welding Race Cars & Street Rods

Have a Welder?   Improve Weld Starts and Have Shielding Gas Cylinder Last at Least Twice as Long! 

Note: Our Patented GSS is Not Available in "Stores"

A home shop fabricator in Georgia with a Miller TM 175 amp welder purchased a 50 foot Gas Saver System ( GSSTM ) so he could use a larger cylinder and mount it on the wall of his shop.  He wrote:

"The system works great.  Thanks for the professional service and a great product."   Click To See His Home Shop


A Professional Street Rod Builder Had This to Say:

With their standard MIG welder gas delivery hose the peak shielding flow at weld start was measured at 150 CFH. That caused air to be sucked into the gas stream causing poor weld starts.  With the GSS replacing their existing hose, the peak flow surge at the weld start was about 50 CFH.  Total gas use was cut in half.

Kyle Bond, President, quickly saw the improvement achieved in weld start quality as a significant advantage!   Kyle, an excellent automotive painter, was well aware of the effects of gas surge caused by pressure buildup in the delivery hose when stopped.  He has to deal with the visible effects in the air hose lines on the spray gun in his paint booth!  The paint surge is visible and creates defects unless the gun is triggered off the part being painted!  We can’t do that with our MIG gun!



"WARNING: "Weld Safely"



About the Author (Click on Photo)