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Building a Street Rod? Small Details make the difference.

Here are some of the Details that make a difference in our car...

Engineering a 1934 Pro Street Street Rod

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Click for a 67 Page PDF

Click for YouTube Video Overview of Car

 

 

Engineering a Street Rod -

YouTube Videos

 

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ENGINE - CLICK

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TUNING HOLLEY CARB - CLICK

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ENGINE COOLING- CLICK

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WIRING - CLICK

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CHASSIS - CLICK

The air conditioning and heater hoses need to go from the front of the engine into the passenger compartment.  Bulkhead fittings can be purchased but what to do with the hoses along the engine compartment? Saw this solution at a Rod Show.  It was custom built.  We built this one from three pieces of 1 inch thick aluminum.

First a slice 1 inch in depth was cut from the block.  Bolt holes were drilled and taped into that piece to hold the assembly together. Then using the proper hole saw size, four holes were made in the assembly. Attached to the hood support bracket with flathead  stainless bolts.  Red hose was just for the trial, all final hoses are black.

After bleeding the brakes a number of times then swapping the silicon brake fluid supplied by TCI for DOT 4,  finally got rid of the spongy brakes.  But the peddle would stay on the floor-not good !!  TCI said  "may need" a return spring.  Why my ride??  Oh well, found a company who sold a spring that fit over the control rod, but it wouldn't fit my arrangement!  A simple spring (photo) was attached to a hole made in a large washer placed on the peddle bolt and  to a small bracket attached to the frame.  Works great!

Probably didn't need it but installed a vacuum reservoir anyway.  Since the Vintage Air works with vacuum actuators didn't want to find my power brakes were not getting a full vacuum.  Has worked great, never a problem.  It fits up in the frame rails.  Did fine I needed a special vacuum hose that doesn't collapse! 

A Holley blue pump puts out enough fuel for the Big Block.  It was placed along the frame rail near the tank so it was pushing with its 16 pound pressure up the 7 psi regulator mounted on the frame rail near the engine. Branded line was used except for the short run of rubber fuel hose from the K&N filter to the pump.  A low oil pressure shut-off switch was added.  It will shut-off the pump when oil pressure drops.

Braded Stainless line were used for fuel lines and in this case the line from the TH400 Trans to the B&M oil cooler.  That small braded line was installed from the oil pressure gauge hole at the rear of the block to a remote location.  No room for it in the engine compartment, nor would it look good!  A 90 degree fitting is all you see up top.

Suicide doors were the appropriate name for these rear hinged safety issues!  1934 was the last year for Ford.  These pins were installed to allow one to be sure they stay closed.  They have an alarm buzzer is the ignition is on and they aren't!  The Dakota Digital remote also has a safety feature not allowing the doors to open if the engine is running!  What is you lock the door with the key on?  The hidden switch will still work.  Be sure you install one!

Small bat switches look great and take little room. Some are momentary.  The ones on either end are double through momentary and operate the windows up an down. One turns on the electric fans (it has a green LED above it), another turns on the rear fog lights (it uses an amber LED) and the last is a momentary that bypasses the oil safety switch so we can turn on the fuel pump manually when we haven't started the car for a while.  The Aluminum plate was made to match the Vintage Air Control shape.

 

Click to See a List of Vendors Used to Build This ProStreet '34

 

"WARNING: "Weld Safely"

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